WALL PLATE TO CONCRETE THE START TO BUILDING BASEMENT WALLS

BOB SCHMIDT SHOWS YOU HOW TO ANCHOR WOOD WALL PLATES TO CONCRETE DURING YOUR BASEMENT REMODELING RENOVATION PROJECT.

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DIY Basement Shelter Plans

As I promised in a previous article, I worked out some rough plans for a basement shelter that I want to share with you. If time and resources permit, I may begin work on building this late this Summer, but next year is probably more realistic. Along with being able to afford the project, another concern I have is whether or not I have sufficient space in my basement. If not, I may have to rent a Bobcat or something to excavate a hole to build the thing in my yard.

Before we begin, keep in mind that protection from radiation is achieved through mass. The numbers I have always gone by to achieve protection from 99% of radiation are as follows: Steel - 5"; Concrete - 16"; Earth - 24" packed or 36" loose; and, water - 36".

Being that we are building this shelter in a basement, it is already blessed by having the earth around it and your house above. This effect is multiplied if your house is more than one story; the voids from each floor to each ceiling won't help you, but the combined mass of the wood and building materials will.

You'll need:

Bricks
A saw
Plywood
Electric drill
Concrete/cinder blocks
Mortar and a trowel
Bagged quikrete, sand and gravel
Wheelbarrow
Steel or heavy wooden beams
Steel rebar (optional, yet highly recommended for increased strength)

Steps:

Choose a suitable place for your shelter. I suggest you utilize a corner space as it will give your structure added strength. I also suggest you choose a space with no windows.
Whether or not you imagine you'll ever find yourself in danger from nuclear radiation, I'm including this next step as a means of added protection against that possibility. That being said, you can skip it if you prefer. Using the drill, screw sections of plywood to the ceiling joists to create something like a shelf in the void between each beam. I suggest screws as they will provide a stronger bond for the construction, but a hammer and nails would suffice. Also, you'll do it in sections (you'll need to pre-saw the 8x4 plywood sheets into smaller, more manageable pieces prior to beginning). Once your first row of "shelves" are ready, fill the void as tightly as possible with bricks. If you've done it in small sections and used screws on both sides, it will hold the weight. Be sure to fill the void as tightly as possible, always remembering that mass is what stops radiation. Repeat until the ceiling over the entire area you'll be building your shelter is covered.
This next step is another that you might be able to get away with skipping if you so choose. I consider it wise as a hedge against any possibility of flooding as I plan to store emergency preparedness supplies in my locked shelter year-round. Using whatever means you find most expedient, build a form into which you will pour a concrete foundation that raises the floor of your shelter several inches above the floor of your existing basement. Now is a perfect time to position steel rebar in the wet concrete. The rebar is another part of this you can probably skip, but using it will increase the strength of the finished structure.
Build the walls to your shelter using the concrete blocks, remembering to leave space to install a door as well as a filtered air intake later (you may also want to run electrical or telephone wiring or pipe in water - I'll leave that to you). If you've used the cinder blocks with the voids in them, I advise you to mix up another batch of concrete mix and pour it in the empty spaces so your walls are solid. This will help to increase the protection factor from blast forces, heat, ballistics, et cetera. The height of the walls is up to you, but FYI a wall built 10 blocks high would afford an internal shelter height of 6'8" and there aren't many of us who couldn't make do with that.
The roof of the shelter should be constructed by laying steel or sturdy wooden beams completely across the top of your shelter and packed tightly together. You could conceivably spread them out more and use them as supports for a ceiling of plywood or metal sheeting, but packing them closer reduces void space and thus provides more protection from radiation. You will need to buy or cut these to the correct size. They should be long enough to lie across your structure, resting upon the tops of the walls but not hanging over if it can be helped. Use vertical beams or build block columns at equal intervals within your shelter to provide added support.
At this point, your basic structure is complete. I would advise covering the roof with plastic sheeting to provide a moisture barrier and adding another layer of tightly-packed bricks (no mortar). Beyond that, the more overall mass you can cram into whatever empty space exists between the roof of your shelter and the roof of your basement (which we stuffed with bricks earlier) the more protection you will have from radiation. Continue to add as much as possible, but always be mindful of the weight on your ceiling and its stability.
Paint the whole thing, inside and out and floor to ceiling, with moisture-resistant paint.

I've left it up to you to decide certain things on your own, such as ventilation and what kind of door to use and how to construct it. I would strongly suggest a metal door though. And, since you've gone this far already, take the tiny extra step to make sure your ventilation system has filters that are rated for NBC protection.

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Basement Renovation

A finished basement can be a great place where you can entertain your family and friends by putting in a recreation room which includes a pool table, ping pong table, pinball machine, and/or dartboard.

Before a basement renovation you should:

1. Look for basement foundation cracks. Hairline cracks in the basement can be the fault of improper curing where as large cracks are most likely caused by settling. Both can be repaired with hydraulic cement if the crack is not active i.e. whatever caused the crack is no longer an existing problem. If the basement crack is still active then the crack patching may be re-opened later.

2. Look for basement moisture problems. Moisture problems may be tough to fix. Water is persistent and can make its way through the basement walls that are considered permeable. An easy way to test water problems is to tape a piece of aluminum foil to various places on the basement walls and floors. Seal the edges of the foil tightly and leave in place for several days. After several days, if moisture droplets appear beneath the foil then moisture is going through the basement masonry. If the moisture appears on top of the foil, the problem is condensation from basement humidity. Look for other water problems by looking in the underside of the basement's first subflooring for signs of leaks. Fix any faulty pipes and fixtures. Look for brownish stains on the basement subfloor and sides of the basement joists. This will indicate active or an old leak that has been repaired. If the stain is spongy, an active leak exists.

Basement renovation planning is key to the success of your basement. For instance, if you decide you want a wetbar and/or bathroom, you will need to have the plumbing done first. This would be a top priority because the plumbing usually goes beneath the cement floor. After the plumbing is completed, you need to plan and install the electric which may include hiring a certified electrician. Your plans should include enough electrical outlets, telephone lines and cable hook-ups. These will be used for your television(s), lamp(s), computer(s), electronic games, and a computer modem. Once installed, you must decide on paneling, dry walling, or painting to cover your cement walls. Although paneling might be cheaper, the refined look of drywall makes it the material of choice for finished spaces. Paneling can look dated and does not always last long.

The next phase in your plans should be the stairwell. Some professionals suggest you should open up the stairwell and install a banister because a basement typically features stairwells that are enclosed. By opening up the basement stairwell you remove some of the basement like atmosphere. Some designers would like to see the doorways of the basement widened and employ arches and columns to dress them up. Examples include French Doors for privacy or a partial separator using decorative glass to add elegance to the basement room.

When looking at windows, if applicable, add as many as you can. Basements tend to be dark and gloomy but with more natural light it becomes a better and well lit area. If windows are very limited, look into security and use glass block windows. When it comes to artificial lighting, the choices are fluorescent lights, table lights, floor lamps and ceiling lights. If your budget allows, stay away from the fluorescent lighting since it is not the most appealing in design.

When installing the ceiling, stay away from suspended ceilings because they make the basement look like a basement. Consider using tray ceilings. When choosing the color for painting, use a light, bright, or dramatic color scheme. With these colors, you can turn that dark gloomy basement into a room that opens and brightens.

The basement floor is always cold since it is in direct contact with the ground. Look at having a subfloor between the concrete and flooring space. This will make it a warmer and dryer living area and a smooth surface for your carpet or flooring of your choosing. If a subfloor is not in your plans and you are using carpet, get plenty of padding to put under the carpet. Try to have a storage room added, maybe around the sump and furnace area. This would be convenient for all those things that can't be thrown out. Think about adding shelves to this room to keep it fairly organized.

To control noise, have thick wall to wall carpeting and a high quality pad can absorb much of the sound. You can use sound deadening material below any underlayment or subfloor. This is nice especially if the basement is used for a bedroom or office. An easy way to reduce noise is by installation of thick insulation between ceiling joists.

In below-ground basement renovations, should you want to add a kitchen or bath you can tie into the plumbing system that is in place above. You can buy toilets and lavatories that are specifically designed for below grade applications.

After your basement renovation are complete, start adding the "toys" that will make it an enjoyable area where you get away from it all.

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